NSW is home to some extraordinary natural wonders, from the world’s oldest caves to ancient rainforests and even bioluminescent beaches. But just an hour south of Sydney lies a place with a remarkable claim to fame and plenty of surprises of its own. Established in 1879, Royal National Park is widely recognised as the world’s second-oldest national park, surpassed only by Yellowstone in the United States. Nearly 150 years later, the sprawling reserve remains a favourite for coastal walks, secluded beaches and breathtaking ocean views. Among its most fascinating sights is Curracurrong Falls, a rare coastal waterfall that plunges towards the Pacific Ocean and, under the right weather conditions, can appear to flow backwards. Here’s what makes this historic park worth exploring.
The history of Royal National Park
Established on 26 April 1879, Royal National Park was originally known simply as the National Park. It was created to preserve an extensive area of bushland south of Sydney for public recreation and was renamed in 1955, following Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to Australia. Today, the park covers more than 15,000 hectares, with a landscape of sandstone cliffs, coastal heathland, eucalyptus forests, rainforest gullies and secluded beaches. The Hacking River winds through its northern section, while the coastline stretches south towards Otford. Visitors can explore the historic Audley precinct, hire a canoe on the Hacking River, swim at Wattamolla or follow sections of the 26km Coast Track between Bundeena and Otford.
The unusual waterfall that can flow backwards
Curracurrong Falls is an impressive coastal waterfall near Eagle Rock, with water spilling over high sandstone cliffs straight towards the Pacific Ocean. Unlike waterfalls that empty into rivers or pools, its streams plunge towards the sea, creating a stunning sight against the surrounding headlands.
And the waterfall has another remarkable feature. When powerful winds blow in from the ocean, they can push the falling water upwards, sending spray back over the cliff edge. The resulting effect makes the waterfall appear to flow in reverse, although it depends entirely on the weather. Even without the strong wind conditions, the setting is worth the journey, particularly after rainfall when the falls are particularly impressive. The nearby Eagle Rock formation, shaped by years of coastal erosion, is another striking landmark at the park.
Walking to Curracurrong Falls
The waterfall can be reached from Wattamolla along a section of the popular Coast Track. The walk is approximately 8km return, winding past coastal heathland and exposed sandstone terrain before reaching the clifftop views near Eagle Rock.
Another option is the approximately 10km Curra Moors loop, a Grade 4 walking track through woodland and heathland that connects with the coastal cliffs. Between May and November, walkers can also spot migrating humpback whales offshore. Check current track conditions before visiting, carry drinking water and keep clear of unfenced cliff edges.
Getting there
Royal National Park is around an hour’s drive south of Sydney, with main entrances off the Princes Highway at Loftus and Waterfall. If you’re visiting Curracurrong Falls, drive to Wattamolla car park via Sir Bertram Stevens Drive and Wattamolla Road, then follow the Coast Track towards Eagle Rock. Parking is available at Wattamolla, although spaces can fill quickly on weekends and public holidays. A $12 daily vehicle entry fee applies. Public transport is also available. Take a train to Cronulla and catch the ferry to Bundeena, or use Loftus, Waterfall or Otford stations to access nearby walking trails. Plan your trip on Transport for NSW.
