In Surry Hills, a new bar is turning the simple act of raising a glass into an art form. The former Dead Ringer site on Bourke Street will come alive once again—this time as Linla, a Taiwanese-inspired social dining bar built on the simple joy of raising a glass.
The brainchild of Taiwanese-born restaurateur and mixologist Charles Chang, Linla channels the warmth of Taiwanese hospitality with Sydney’s appetite for stylish, community-led dining.
If his name sounds familiar, that’s because Chang is also behind Moku, the Japanese fusion bar next door that has quietly earned cult status for its culinary cocktails.
For Linla, Chang looks closer to home. “Linla isn’t about one culture or one cuisine,” he says. “It’s about the moment when people raise their glasses together. That sound, that feeling—that’s what we wanted to build the entire space around.”
A Ritual Of Togetherness
In Taiwanese dialect, Linla translates to the clinking sound and shared energy of a toast—a nod to connection, celebration and presence.
That ethos pulses through the new venue, from communal share plates to a curated soundscape designed to encourage conversation.
Housed in a converted Victorian terrace, Linla features a two-sided dining room seating up to 32, including intimate bar seats. There’s even a bespoke theme song, blending contemporary layers with subtle Asian textures—like a sonic signature for the experience.
Where Moku reflects minimalism and poise, Linla aims for playfulness and spontaneity. The space feels both intimate and open: soft ivory walls, walnut finishes and amber leather banquettes glow under warm lighting, while a crisp stainless-steel bar anchors the room with a modern edge.
The raised sandstone balcony, with seating for 20 overlooking leafy Bourke Street, promises prime aperitif territory once the weather warms.
Food Designed For Sharing (& Stories)
At the heart of Linla’s menu is Head Chef Montien “James” Thipwongsa, whose background in Thai cuisine brings a deft balance of sweet, sour, spice and umami. He grew up cooking beside his grandmother—a detail that shows in plates that feel both refined and personal.
Here, you’ll find dishes that travel across Asia via Sydney sensibilities: Night-Market Crispy Chicken with Szechuan seasoning and basil; Cha-Cha-Cha Half Chicken with avocado salsa and fermented chilli oil; and an eye-catching Wagyu Beef Tartare with scallion pancake and yuzu olive oil.
If you like a little theatre, the Pork and Prawn Wontons in Tom Yum Beurre Blanc hit that sweet spot between tradition and innovation, while Sticky Rice Arancini stuffed with Taiwanese sausage nods to the venue’s cross-cultural flair.
Drinks That Tell A Taiwanese Tale
Chang’s cocktail list reads like a travelogue in liquid form—layered, playful, but grounded in craft. The Pine & Bloom pairs pineapple mead with MSG saline (!), the Ebi-Tini stirs sakura ebi shochu with sencha and Tomato Salad 2.0 manages to reimagine the brunch staple as a tequila cocktail that somehow works.
Otherwise, for the less spirit-forward crowd, Linla’s sparkling tea program—featuring jasmine, oolong and chamomile infusions—balances the spice and makes a strong case for alcohol-free sophistication.
Omakase Next Door & Beyond
In a fitting neighbourly link, Moku’s chef Ha Chuen Wai will debut a six-seat omakase experience in the adjoining private dining room, offering multi-course seasonal tastings by reservation only. Moreover, the experience finds a permanent home here, adding another layer of exclusivity to the already intimate space.
Beyond its launch, Linla plans to host guest chef residencies, bartender takeovers and seasonal collaborations—a format that keeps things dynamic and rooted in community, much like Surry Hills itself.
With its collision of flavour, music and mood, Linla feels less like a new venue and more like a continuation of the neighbourhood’s story—one told glass by glass across a long night in Sydney.
Finally, Linla opens Tuesday, 17th March at 413 Bourke Street, Surry Hills. Open late until 1am.
